Glossary

Ailao Shan (哀牢山)

Ailao Shan is a mountain range stretching nearly 500 kilometers from the northwest to the southeast of Yunnan province. It is named after the ancient kingdom of Ailao, which existed in the western part of present-day Yunnan during the 1st millennium BCE. The average elevation of the range is about 2,000 meters above sea level, with the highest peak reaching 3,146 meters.

Actually, Ailao Shan is the largest natural reserve of humid evergreen broadleaf forests in China, stretching along the mountain range. It hosts the largest natural habitat of wild ancient tea trees, some of which are over 2,500 years old. This unique region is also world-renowned for its picturesque Hani rice terraces, the ancient horse caravan tea road, and the exquisite tea that was once transported along this perilous route.

In Ailao Shan, famous tea villages such as Maden, Maidi, Huashan, Qianjiazhai, and others are located. Ancient tea gardens stretch across the mountain slopes around these villages. In these settlements, small local ethnic groups like the Hani and Yi have traditionally been engaged in tea cultivation and production.

Bai Cha (白茶)

White tea is a type of tea with the shortest production process: the leaves are harvested, withered (Wei Diao), and dried. That’s it!

That is why white tea, more than any other type, depends heavily on the quality of the tea raw material. The main difference between white tea and all other varieties lies in the absence of mechanical processing of the leaves. The leaves are neither rolled nor crushed, unlike in the production of black, green, puerh, and oolong teas. As a result, the cellular membranes remain intact, preserving all the valuable contents inside. The juice stays within the cells and barely interacts with the air, causing the tea leaves to oxidize/ferment only partially and unevenly. This explains the natural flavor and smooth extractability of white tea.

The drying process is also extremely important. It occurs slowly, through air drying in open air under gentle sunlight and/or in a well-ventilated room. Achieving a high-quality result depends on many factors — temperature, sunlight intensity, humidity, wind, exposure time, and more. The master must constantly monitor the process and promptly respond to changes in weather and tea material — for example, protecting the tea from excessive sunlight by moving trays into the shade or covering them with a translucent cloth. Overall, this is a true art that takes years to master. However, such an approach is characteristic only of high-quality farm teas, as factory teas are typically dried indoors with air conditioning, which certainly does not add flavor or uniqueness to the tea.

White tea also does not undergo thermal processing or fixation, meaning the oxidation/fermentation process is not completely halted. Therefore, during aging, high-quality white teas continue to ferment gradually. The infusion darkens and becomes denser; the aroma and flavor grow deeper and more complex.

Da Jin Ya Cha (大金芽)

Literally translated as “Big Golden Bud,” this term refers to a traditional Yunnan red tea, or Dian Hong, made primarily from buds (flushes). The same name can also apply to a shu puerh produced with significantly more buds than the traditional recipe. In both cases, the finished tea features golden-colored buds (a result of fermentation) and relatively large size, reflecting the late stage of bud (flush) formation in the large-leaf variety of Camellia Sinensis var. Assamica ), which is what gives the tea its name.

Da Li Cha (大理茶) / Camelia Taliensis

This is the Chinese name for tea plants of the species Camellia Taliensis. This is the so-called “wild tea” or Ye Sheng — the closest relative of the variety of Camellia Sinensis var. Assamica and its actual ancestor. It is believed that both varieties originate from the mountain slopes of present-day Yunnan. Only these two tea varieties are capable of growing into trees.

Morphologically, wild tea can be distinguished by the absence of fuzz on the leaf surface and the complete or almost complete lack of serrations along its edges. The main flavor characteristic of wild C. Taliensis is the near total absence of astringency, which is typical for cultivated Assamica and Sinensis varieties.

Together with its cultivated relative, wild tea forms the basis for the production of Sheng Puerh, although it is used in much smaller quantities due to its rarity and distinctive flavor profile.

C. Taliensis is also used for the production of white and red teas. The raw material is usually harvested directly from trees in the forest, but there are also tea gardens where these plants are cultivated. Yunnan farmers often transplant such plants from the forest closer to the village or grow wild plants separately in gardens from collected seeds for convenience.

Da Shu (大树 or 大樹)

Chinese term literally translated as “big tree.” In Yunnan, this term typically refers to tea made from tea plants that have reached a certain age. For example, in the northwestern part of Yunnan, it means tea plants at least 70–100 years old, while in the southern part, it refers to plants aged 50–70 years. This difference is due to climatic conditions that affect the growth rate of the plants.

Tea made from such material is highly valued by true tea enthusiasts because, as a tree or bush ages, its root system becomes stronger and draws more minerals from the soil. Additionally, metabolic processes in the tea plant change with age. These factors greatly influence the tea’s quality, flavor, aftertaste, and suitability for long-term aging.

Da Ye Zhong (大叶种 or 大葉種) / Camellia Sinensis var. Assamica

This is the Chinese name for a variety of Camellia Sinensis var. Assamica. Literally translated from Chinese as “big leaf.” This is not surprising, as this variety is characterized by large size and density of leaves. It is typical for Yunnan, which is considered its homeland.

C. Sinensis var. Assamica It is the basis for producing puerh, white, red, and green teas. This plant is considered the most primitive among all cultivated varieties, meaning it was the first tea plant domesticated by humans, closely resembling the wild species Camellia Taliensis. It is the only cultivated tea variety that can grow into a tree, having a clearly defined trunk and crown. Such tea trees can grow over 15 meters tall (Qiao Mu) and live for several thousand years.

In Camellia Sinensis var. Assamica, the content of organic compounds is much higher than in small- and medium-leaf teas (polyphenols 30-33%, caffeine 4-5%, catechins ~240 mg/g versus polyphenols 20-25%, caffeine 2-3.5%, catechins ~215 mg/g). This variety is better suited than any other for the aging (maturation) of finished tea.

The term Da Ye Zhong is usually used in Yunnan to denote tea raw material originating from large-leaf cultivated tea plants.

Dan Zhu (单株 or 單株)

Literally translated from Chinese as “single plant.” This term in China refers to tea made from leaves harvested from one specific tea plant. In such tea, the concept of “terroir” is revealed to the fullest extent, as the location and accompanying uniqueness are narrowed down to a single individual plant.

Basically, tea can be made from any single tea plant, but the amount of harvested leaves must be sufficient to produce at least a few kilograms of tea. Therefore, the plant needs to be quite large. Only a small number of ancient trees or bushes reach such sizes, which can take more than five hundred years. It’s also important to understand that not all such trees produce tea that meets the highest quality standards and can truly be called Dan Zu.

Dian Hong (滇红 or 滇紅)

Literally, this is an abbreviation of Dianxi Hong Cha, which means “Red Tea from Dianxi”. In fact, it is a red tea from Yunnan. Nowadays this term is applied to any Hong Cha from this region, but previously it referred only to red teas from Fengqing.

The first factory to produce Dian Hong was the Feng Qing Factory in Yunnan, founded in 1939. In 1958, the Yunnan Dianhong Group Co Ltd factory created the famous Dian Hong recipe, which became recognized after it triumphed at the London Tea Market, the largest tea exhibition in Britain. It is still produced by this factory under the name Dian Hong No. 58. Some people believe that this recipe is more adapted for Western consumers and works very well when brewed in a classic teapot.

In fact, Dian Hong is a red tea made from the large-leaved Da Ye Jun (Camellia Sinensis var. Assamica), typical of Yunnan, using the technology of producing Gongfu Hong, a high-quality red tea.

Gongfu Hong (工夫红 or 功夫紅)

This name can be translated as “Red Tea of High Craftsmanship.” It refers to a category of high-quality Chinese red teas united by a common production technique, which emerged in the last century as a new stage in the evolution of red teas.

The main difference from other red teas is that during the drying process, Gongfu Hong teas do not undergo the Hong Pei stage — a short high-temperature heating performed immediately after fermentation to completely halt enzyme activity. As a result, Gongfu Hong teas continue to oxidize throughout the subsequent drying. This requires great skill, as precisely timing the stopping point of fermentation is very challenging.

Overall, the technological process includes the following steps: harvesting – withering (Wei Diao) – rolling (Rou Nian) – fermentation (Fa Jiao) – two-stage drying (Gan Zao). Gongfu Hong teas have fewer steps, but the complexity of each operation is increased. This allows for the use of a wider variety of raw materials, such as buds, which are very difficult to ferment. Typical examples of Gongfu Hong teas are Dian Hong (Yunnan) and Minhong (Fujian).

Gu Shu (古树 or 古樹)

The Chinese term meaning “old tree.” This term is commonly used in Yunnan to denote tea raw material originating from ancient tea trees or bushes, which is highly valued among tea enthusiasts.

Depending on the growing region, the minimum age considered for ancient trees can vary. For example, in southern areas with rich natural soils and a tropical climate, the term Gu Shu may be applied to plants aged from 70 years. In less fertile high-altitude regions, where masters are more selective about the quality of raw materials, the age of such plants typically starts from 150–200 years.

The thing is, these plants have entered a stage of slow growth, during which their metabolic processes significantly slow down. It is also important that the root systems of such plants are very deep, allowing them to absorb more minerals. These factors make the tea’s flavor more mineral-rich and complex.

A noble and pleasant bitterness quickly gives way to sweetness. The flavor is strong yet refined, with a pleasant astringency or sometimes none at all (typical for wild/raw material, Ye Sheng). The aftertaste is distinct and very long-lasting, with many infusions and a powerful tea effect.

Hei Cha (黑茶)

Black or dark tea, in a broad traditional sense, is a Chinese category of teas that have undergone a stage of secondary fermentation (Hou Fa Jiao), regardless of whether the fermentation occurred naturally through gradual, long-term aging (aged sheng puers or white teas), or via the technique of accelerated high-temperature wet piling, Ren Gong Jia Su Hou Fa Jiao (typical for Liu Bao Cha (Guangxi), Nanlu (Sichuan), and Hei Cha (Hunan)) or Wo Dui (typical for Yunnan Shu puers). However, the more modern understanding excludes gradually aged long-term teas from the Hei Cha category, leaving only those teas that underwent artificially accelerated post-fermentation during production. These two methods of secondary fermentation produce very different results, making the teas difficult to compare.

Hong Cha (红茶 or 紅茶)

Red tea, which is commonly called black tea in the West, is, very briefly, tea that has undergone a deep fermentation process. The main production stages are: leaf plucking, withering (Wei Diao), rolling (Rou Nian), fermentation, and drying. The key stage is fermentation (Fa Jiao), which occurs endogenously through the interaction of polyphenols with oxygen, catalyzed (activated) by the natural enzymes in the tea leaves. In fact, this is an oxidation process, the results of which are visible in the color and extractive quality of the leaves and, consequently, in the color, body, and flavor of the infusion.

An important factor is also the moment when fermentation is stopped. This occurs when the fermentation of the leaves reaches 60-80%. Since this is a fairly wide range, the exact timing of stopping chosen by the master will have a strong influence on the flavor of the tea. The stopping of fermentation itself takes place during the drying stage, which can consist of several phases and, for example, be carried out in a special oven or dryer (Hong Pei or Hong Gan), in a wok over an open fire (Kao Hong), or under strong sunlight (Shai Gan or Shai Qing).

Lao Cong (老丛 or 老枞 or 老叢)

Literally translated as “old bush.” This term refers exclusively to bushes (i.e., a tea plant with multiple trunks) and indicates that the plant is old but has not developed a single trunk typical of a tree. Old bushes can be small, about 1-2 meters tall, or very tall (harvesting from them without a ladder is impossible). Their leaves are fleshy, and their trunks and branches are covered with moss and lichen. They impress with their appearance, promising an extraordinary tea.

This term is usually used in Fujian and Guangdong. In Yunnan, such plants are referred to as Xiao Mu — small tea trees.

Lu Cha (绿茶 or 緑茶)

Green tea. In short, it is a non-fermented tea. The main stages of production are: leaf picking, sha qing (fixation or stopping of fermentation), rolling (Rou Nian), and drying. The most important stage is sha qing, which completely stops fermentation and oxidation by heating the tea leaves, which can be done by pan-frying in a wok, steaming, heating in an oven, etc. This process effectively preserves the primary natural substances: tea polyphenols and caffeine (over 85%), chlorophyll (about 50%), catechins, amino acids, and vitamins. However, it should be understood that a complete stop of fermentation essentially destroys the natural microflora and enzymes in the leaves. Therefore, unlike white, red, and sheng puer teas, green tea cannot mature well over time, and its flavor will only deteriorate with age.

During the fixation stage, the tea leaves also become softer, creating favorable conditions for the subsequent rolling stage. During rolling, mechanical pressure causes some of the tea sap to be released and spread over the leaf surface. This plays an important role in enhancing the concentration of the tea’s flavor. Rolling also sets the foundation for the future shape of the tea leaves. During drying, excess moisture is removed from the leaves and their final shape is formed. This shape can vary—elongated needles, pellets, flat elongated strips, spirals, etc. Typically, the drying process is divided into two parts: initial drying and final roasting.

Green teas are valued for their health benefits and fresh taste. The optimal brewing temperature is 80–95°C.

Qiao Mu (乔木 or 喬木)

Literally translated from Chinese as “tall tree.” This term refers to tall tea trees that grow freely and have distinct trunks and crowns. These trees can be either wild or cultivated. Their average height ranges from 3 to 10 meters, but it is not uncommon to find trees much taller than 10 meters. For example, on Mount Ailao, there is a tea tree about 15 meters tall with a trunk diameter of over 2 meters at the base. In Yunnan, the term Da Shu (“big tree”) is sometimes used as a synonym for Qiao Mu, but Da Shu primarily characterizes the age of the plant (usually over 80–100 years).

Shai Hong (晒红 or 晒紅)

A category of Chinese red teas in which the final production stage — drying — is done by natural sun heating, using the Shai Gan or Shai Qing technique. This contrasts with modern classic red teas, where drying is achieved through artificial high-temperature processing. This method of producing red teas was considered traditional in southern China as early as the 19th century and was used alongside drying over a fire in a kettle (Kao Hong).

At the beginning of the 20th century, influenced by convenient modern Western technologies, the sun-drying technique was replaced by drying in special ovens or dryers (Hong Pei or Hong Gan). Sun drying is highly dependent on weather, and achieving a high-quality, stable result requires exceptional knowledge and experience from the master. However, over the past 10 years, shai hongs have experienced a revival and become a leading trend among red teas. This is not surprising, as they are softer and sweeter, with more delicate and complex aromas and flavors. Due to the gradual natural warming in the sun, the tea leaves undergo only partial fermentation stoppage, retaining residual enzyme activity, making shai hongs similar to sheng puers and giving them long-term potential for gradual maturation during further storage.

Sheng Puerh (生普洱)

Sheng Puerh is a distinct category of tea regulated by its place of production — the Yunnan province — and by the tea raw material, consisting of leaves and buds from tea plants of the Camellia Sinensis var. Assamica or wild Camelia Taliensis, and by the production technology.

The main goal in producing high-quality sheng puerh is to maximize the expression of the unique terroir of the tea raw material in the finished beverage while preserving its potential for gradual aging/post-fermentation (Hou Fa Jiao) during storage. The technological process involves the following steps: harvesting the raw material; withering (Wei Diao) to initially remove excess moisture from the leaves, soften them, and activate oxidation (fermentation) processes; partial fermentation stoppage (fixation) (Sha Qing) to reduce enzyme activity by heating in a wok (Chao Qing), under strong sunlight (Shai Qing), or by steaming (Zheng Qing), preventing oxidation during the subsequent rolling (Rou Nian) process and making rolling easier by softening the leaves with heat; rolling to break cell walls, enhancing tea extractability and influencing maturation during storage; sun drying (Shai Qing) for the final removal of excess moisture and to carry out concluding biochemical processes in the leaves induced by heat. The result is loose-leaf sheng puerh (Mao Cha), which can either be sold as loose tea, steamed and pressed into various shapes (cakes, bricks, tuocha, etc.), or used as raw material for further production of shu puerh.

Shu Puerh (熟普洱)

Shu puerh is a tea that belongs to the Chinese category of black (dark) teas (Hei Cha). It emerged in the early 1970s as a response to market demand for teas with soft flavor characteristics similar to those of aged teas that have undergone long post-fermentation processes, such as mature aged sheng puerhs.

Producers actively sought a shorter method. In 1973, the Yunnan branch of the China National Native Produce & Animal By-Products Import & Export Corporation (CNNP) conducted the first successful experiment at a factory in Kunming, whose results were soon adopted by factories in Menghai and Xiaguan. Simplified, the technique Ren Gong Jia Su Hou Fa Jiao was applied to finished sheng puerh, a method long used in producing Liu Bao tea in Guangdong. This technique involves high-temperature (60–65°C) wet piling (fermentation), called Wo Dui, which accelerates secondary fermentation (45–90 days) through the action of microorganisms, moisture, and heat. During this process, complex chemical reactions occur in the tea leaves: decomposition, catalysis, oxidation, polymerization, condensation, and synthesis. Insoluble polysaccharides and amino acids convert into soluble forms. Extractability significantly increases, and the brew becomes much darker, denser, sweeter, and smoother.

It is important to understand that shu puerh cannot be directly compared to aged old sheng puerhs, even though they may seem similar at first glance. What gradual post-fermentation achieves over many years of aging in sheng puerh can never be replicated by the rapid and aggressive exogenous fermentation used in shu puerh production. These are truly two different types of tea, each with its own unique characteristics.

Tai Di Cha (台地茶 or 臺地茶)

Lowland tea. This refers to tea grown on plantations in lowlands or at the foothills of mountains, rather than on mountainous slopes. Generally, this term denotes tea cultivated using modern methods on densely planted tea plantations. Due to dense planting and excessive use of artificial yield enhancers (pesticides, herbicides, fertilizers, growth hormones), this tea tends to be of low quality. Such plants lack a main root, having only lateral roots. They do not grow tall and have a short lifespan. This type of tea is not highly regarded among true tea connoisseurs.

Wuliang Shan (无量山 or 無量山)

The Wuliangshan mountain range belongs to the southern part of the Hengduan mountain chain, which stretches across the entire Yunnan province. Its name means “Endless Mountains.” Together with the Ailaoshan mountain range, it is located at the intersection of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, the Hengduan mountain range, and the high-altitude Yunnan Plateau. The mountains are quite high and steep. The highest point reaches 3,306 meters above sea level, while the lowest is over 1,000 meters. It is situated at the convergence of the tropical zones of Central and South Asia.

The natural environmental conditions are complex and diverse. Since the territory within the borders of Wuliangshan contains high mountains and deep gorges, there are significant differences in altitude and noticeable climatic changes across its vertical range. Overall, it is a vast mountainous area filled with dozens of tea locations (terroirs) and ancient tea gardens, which can be roughly divided into three parts: northern, central, and southern. The northern part, both in terms of mountain height and latitude, is located almost at the boundary of the natural range of large-leafed, straight-trunk tea trees ( Camellia Sinensis var. Assamica and Camelia Taliensis).

Gradually descending, the Wuliangshan ridge transitions into its middle section, where the majority of the tea villages are located. Finally, the southern part extends its spurs into the Xishuangbanna prefecture, famous for its Magnificent Tea Mountains. However, it is important to understand that hardly anyone would call tea from the Yiwu mountain “Wuliangshan tea,” even though clear connections can be traced along the ridge. For example, many ancient tea gardens in the middle part of Wuliangshan were established using planting material from the Yiwu region.

Xiao Mu (小木)

Literally translated from Chinese as “small tree.” This term in Yunnan refers to low-height tea trees, typically 2–3 meters tall. They have distinct trunks and branching that often starts close to the ground. These can be trees that have not yet grown tall or trees that will no longer grow taller due to natural conditions or because farmers have artificially limited their height for easier leaf harvesting. This category refers only to the tree’s size, not its age, as such a tree can be anywhere from 100 to 1000 years old.

Ye Sheng Cha (野生茶)

Ye Sheng Cha or simply Ye Sheng translates from Chinese as “wild tea.” It is essentially a category of tea for which three types of tea raw materials can be used:

1. Wild tea as a plant species, specifically Camellia Taliensis, which grows naturally and has not been cultivated or transplanted by humans. For example, wild tea trees growing in a mixed forest among other plants and trees.

2. Feral plants of the variety Camellia Sinensis var. Assamica. For example, an abandoned tea garden where the tea plants have not been tended or harvested for decades or even centuries. As a result, such tea acquires flavor characteristics similar to those of natural Camellia Taliensis: almost complete absence of astringency and a softness.

3. Wild Camellia Taliensis plants that have been transplanted from the forest to a tea garden or grown there from seeds. For example, among the minority peoples of Yunnan, such as the Yi Zu or Hani, there is a tradition of transplanting small wild plants from the forest into a garden near the village for easier harvesting.

Yuan Sheng (原生)

Translated from Chinese as “primitive.” This term refers to tea made from leaves harvested from tea trees that naturally grow among other trees in mixed forests. Typically, these plants belong to the Camellia taliensis variety — the natural wild tea.

Yue Guang Bai Cha (月光白茶)

Literally translated as “Moonlight White Tea” this famous Yunnan white tea is surrounded by many myths and misconceptions. Some “experts” confidently claim that the tea is picked at night under the moonlight and dried that same night so that it is ready before sunrise. They use this to explain its unique appearance, taste, and aroma. Of course, such legends have no basis in reality.

For the production of this tea, typically the bud, the bud with one leaf, or the bud with two leaves are selected. The typical appearance is indeed striking: the abaxial (underside) and adaxial (upper side) surfaces of the leaf differ sharply in color, with one side being light and the other dark, sometimes almost black. This is primarily due to the morphological characteristics of the tea leaf variety Jinggu Da Bai (景谷大白), which is one of the endemic cultivars of Camellia Sinensis var. Assamica (Da Ye Zhong) , typical for Yunnan, this cultivar is widespread in the Wuliang Shan region, which is the birthplace of Yue Guang Bai Cha. Such tea leaves have a distinctive fuzziness on one side, giving them a shimmering light color reminiscent of “moonlight.” The other side of the leaf is smooth and, after the drying process, acquires a very dark color.

Drying is a crucial stage in the production of this tea. Skilled masters combine drying under the morning sun with drying in a well-ventilated room, constantly moving trays with thin layers of leaves from place to place. This technique, combined with the unique characteristics of the local tea cultivars, imparts the brew with its distinctive honey-floral aroma and flavor, which deepen and become more complex with each year of aging.

Zai Pei Xing (栽培型)

This is the Chinese name for tea plants of the species Camellia sinensis, which includes almost all the cultivated varieties of tea grown by humans. For example, such as Camellia Sinensis var. Assamica (typical for Yunnan) and Camellia Sinensis var. Sinensis (typical for Fujian).

Zheng Shan (正山)

The term refers to tea raw material sourced directly from a specific tea mountain, as opposed to tea from lowlands and plantations (Tai Di Cha). Examples include teas from the mountains of Yiwu, Jingmai Shan, Ailao Shan, and so on. Such teas are highly valued by connoisseurs for the quality of the raw material and the uniqueness of the terroir.

It is important to understand that the altitude at which tea grows greatly affects its quality. The higher the elevation, the greater the temperature fluctuations the tea leaves experience. During the day, temperatures can rise to 30°C, while at night they can drop to 3°C. This allows the tea to accumulate a wealth of beneficial substances during the day and preserve them overnight when the temperature falls significantly. This ideal climate makes the flavor and aftertaste of the tea complex and long-lasting.