Classic yancha (“rock” Wuyishan oolongs) from Lianhuafeng (“Lotus Peak”, 530 m) are usually vivid representatives of the “rock-peak” profile (岩峰类, yan feng lei), with a pronounced zhuxiang (主香, “primary aroma”) and an expressive character.

This is especially true of the Rougui cultivar (肉桂 / rougui), whose name translates from Chinese as “cinnamon” for good reason. This profile is shaped on the slopes of Lianhuafeng, where there is abundant sunlight and wind, a thin layer of fertile soil, and dramatic temperature fluctuations. Yet this tea is entirely different, despite being born in this very terroir.

Master Ke managed to achieve something almost unbelievable. This yancha developed an elegant, restrained, and exceptionally mineral profile. It is much more reminiscent of kengjian lei (坑涧类, “pit-and-ravine”) yancha.

Such Wuyishan teas are produced only in Hexin Zhengyan – the historic core of the reserve. These are the so-called “Three Pits and Two Ravines” – the “canonical” deep gorges characterized by diffused light, high humidity, and thick, fertile soils.

Frankly, it is difficult to say whether Master Ke achieved this by chance or deliberately sought such a result. The production of Wuyishan oolongs is extraordinarily complex: the classic 10 processes actually comprise more than 50 consecutive operations, and even the slightest adjustment at any stage can have a profound impact on the final result. Moreover, it can lead to a loss of quality and, consequently, value, even when the finest raw material is used. And the material in this oolong can hardly be called ordinary: leaves from 40-50-year-old tea bushes (laocong) of the Rougui cultivar, grown on the slopes of Lianhuafeng – one of the 36 celebrated peaks of Wuyishan.

This Wuyishan oolong displays an exceptionally vivid expression of yan yun (岩韵, “rock rhyme”) – a mineral depth that is difficult to put into words, accompanied by the long aftertaste for which authentic high-quality yancha is so highly prized. The tea is highly extractive, so it is best to begin with short 10-15-second infusions, gradually and intuitively increasing the steeping time with subsequent brews.